Author Topic: Non ST modelling projects (Read 18571 times)

Armondikov · « **Reply #20 on:** January 21, 2008, 12:56:46 PM »

Quote from: RCgothic on January 21, 2008, 11:47:34 AM

enemy/friendly inspecific.

Dead guardsmen, you can't go wrong with piles and piles of dead guardsmen under a big thing. No matter what world, what senario or army you're palying, there will always be dead guard around.

Your biggest concern with a base is actually whether it will match the board not necessarily the enemies. City fights are becoming a lot more popular, I know close to 100% of the stuff I do is city fight based, but that kind of thing isn't great for a titan. You could just build a display base more than a battle base, in which case, go to town on it.

RCgothic · « **Reply #21 on:** January 21, 2008, 03:24:27 PM »

Could do an overgrown paved gravelly area.

That way even in a city it wouldn't be too out of place. Most of our boards are green, with city buildings. The store guys say they're going to do a desert board soon.

RCgothic · « **Reply #22 on:** January 22, 2008, 04:27:07 AM »

Have washed all the bits to remove any mould lubricant.

As a point of interest, here's the view from the room I'm working in. That's the Balliol College Jowett Walk sports ground, and the buildings on the left are the departments of Chemistry and Hydrology.

Armondikov · « **Reply #23 on:** January 22, 2008, 08:30:44 AM »

I'm sure you're experienced in forge-world's fantastic merchandise, but as a hint, wash it again. And again. Then score all the flat bits and buy the strongest hammerite style primer you can get your mitts on.

Viper · « **Reply #24 on:** January 22, 2008, 10:19:15 AM »

I find washing them in a good degreaser is usually all they need. I do some of my own castings, and the mold release agent usually cleans up fairly easy. I let them soak for about an hour in warm soapy water, then lightly scrub with an old toothbrush. Rinse and let dry and you should be fine.

Armondikov · « **Reply #25 on:** January 22, 2008, 10:24:23 AM »

Quote from: Viper on January 22, 2008, 10:19:15 AM

I find washing them in a good degreaser is usually all they need.

Anti-dandruff shampoo? Apparently you can degrease engines with it. I'll have to try it since my Tyrant's already flaking in patches.

Viper · « **Reply #26 on:** January 22, 2008, 10:27:14 AM »

never tried it. I usually use Joy dish soap. Same stuff I use to degrease firearms.

RCgothic · « **Reply #27 on:** January 22, 2008, 11:18:24 AM »

They had a good soak in soapy water, should be fine. I'll be undercoating with a fine matt varnish rather than paint, because it adheres better to the resin according to the guys in the shop.

Viper · « **Reply #28 on:** January 22, 2008, 02:09:55 PM »

that is correct! I usually prime with either automotive primer or something like Mr. Surfacer on resin. Mostly though, I grab my trusty can of $.98 Walmart Equipment Grey Primer. It has never failed me in over 15 years. [yes, I built my first model at age 10.]

RCgothic · « **Reply #29 on:** January 25, 2008, 04:26:06 PM »

Well, the magnets worked. I bought myself a cheap hammer drill, a 15mm flat drill bit and a pack of 20 neodymium rare-earth magnets. This is the result:

I was really worried about this, because if I had been unwise about insisting on magnets, sorting out the drill-holes would have been nearly impossible. I'm glad it turned out ok.

Viper · « **Reply #30 on:** January 25, 2008, 06:01:30 PM »

hey, thats an interesting idea. Might have to use it on a couple dioramas for when I transport them to contests. I've done models with motors and lights, but never magnets.

RCgothic · « **Reply #31 on:** January 25, 2008, 06:57:54 PM »

Magnets are also good for concealed switches. Reed switches I think they're called. Put a magnet in a gas-can or something and stick it over a part of hull with concealed reed switch and all the lights come on.

I'm going to stick to purposes of disassembly and poses though. Though I have a good knowledge of electronics (I could build in a CLK controlled 4th order filter if neccessary), I have little to none of concealing such in miniatures, and I'd rather not go all-in on this model.

I'm also going to make the head, pelvis and legs detatchable by much the same method.

Armondikov · « **Reply #32 on:** January 26, 2008, 03:29:56 PM »

Do you have alternate weapons too or did it arrive with just the one set?

Though I'm sure you could do some cool stuff with electronics embedded in to it. I've seen a stereo embedded in a Squiggoth. Getting the cockpit to light up should be fairly easy for you.

RCgothic · « **Reply #33 on:** January 26, 2008, 04:02:06 PM »

I don't have alternative weapons - yet. The store has a spare vulcan megabolter, and I've been applying some pressure. I think I'll be avoiding electronics for the moment, although there's no reason I can't add some later if I feel like it.

RCgothic · « **Reply #34 on:** January 26, 2008, 07:55:55 PM »

And I've done the same for the head. Notice that the hole wasn't quite straight so I leveled the surface off with green stuff. I think I may have this problem with the arms as well, once attatched, but I can use the same trick, or bending the arms in warm water, to get them level.

This last one demonstrates that the titan will be posable. The head can be at any angle.

At this stage I'm going to take a break to paint the interior before I've stuck the two halves of the carapace together. I don't have a clue how to do the insides though.

Any ideas? It should look like the inside of a military vehicle, but I'm not sure whether to go for a pale cream or a battleship grey for the majority background. It should look like engineering, and not clash with the exterior, which is going to be done mostly like the Baneblade Tank in the first post.

For the cable connectors I'm going to need 5mm wooden dowel, and 5mm internal diameter black rubber tubing. I also need some sort of base material. I wish there was a B&Q in central oxford.

Armondikov · « **Reply #35 on:** January 27, 2008, 10:20:47 AM »

I would just black it all and then drybrush with boltgun metal, then pick out any pipping that you think should be copper and do any raised panels as red or very dark washed out red, which is the colour of the machine god.

RCgothic · « **Reply #36 on:** January 27, 2008, 02:14:48 PM »

I've decided I'm going to go for a submarine-style look. I'll be using darkened down codex grey, highlighting with codex grey. I agree with the copper bits, and screens will be in various shades of grey, buttons on panels red, yellow or green. Bolts will be boltgun metal. The plan is to make it look dark, yet clean. The black-botgun drybrush would make it look too dirty I think.

Viper · « **Reply #37 on:** January 27, 2008, 11:38:15 PM »

Sounds cool. Maybe I'll post WIP pics of my next build. I've got some fun ones coming up!

Armondikov · « **Reply #38 on:** January 28, 2008, 03:56:02 AM »

The Submarine look sounds good. A lot of the interiors of the big Forgeworld stuff would suit that.

Since we're also looking at general modelling and 40K between updates on this thread, I thought I'd attach this. Yes, it is exactly what you think it is. (apologies if the link buggers, I don't think it's directly facebook related so you won't require a log in, but if it fails for anyone, I'll attach, it's scary enough to warrant it...)

RCgothic · « **Reply #39 on:** January 28, 2008, 04:43:50 AM »

Haha.

Well, the first attempt at painting didn't go very well. I thought I'd scrubbed and washed thoroughly, but obviously not. The paint didn't stick, and gunked up the control panel and a few bits of machinery. It's going to be a pain to sort out. This was despite being undercoated with varnish.

Edit: Possible that not much harm was done, the paint seems to be scraping off nicely.

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Author Topic: Non ST modelling projects (Read 18571 times)