Bridge Commander Central
Recreational Forums => Art Forum => Topic started by: ACES_HIGH on March 03, 2010, 03:58:51 PM
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Viper's not the only plastic modeler on these forums.
Mostly I do modern military planes:
(http://artzone.daz3d.com/azfiles/gallery/4a/rs/ta03f4fyjhtrvxq3f7d934rvu9hbwu-full.jpg)
(http://artzone.daz3d.com/azfiles/gallery/o5/6g/7dv9a5sjrhgpy82bh8i0eb2xvdwhn8-full.jpg)
(http://artzone.daz3d.com/azfiles/gallery/rt/gm/abys9udw2zcx4cpx3ctzvsz82bh1zo-full.jpg)
(http://artzone.daz3d.com/azfiles/gallery/qy/pw/cligp00di2m4xcvtt260q1ixe2my6r-full.jpg)
(http://artzone.daz3d.com/azfiles/gallery/vy/op/f5y1bynpa6v5cx33rrae4a7v2q1xaw-full.jpg)
As you can see the Tomcats and the Eagle are still waiting to be decaled, and I'm not exactly the best photographer. but these are some of my best models yet.
My next project is a bit more ambitious:
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g194/ACESHIGH1/DSCF0406.jpg)
I plan on doing a multi-toned paneling pattern. I've already started masking the parts out for the pattern, it's taken me about a week so far to finish the saucer and warp nacelles, but I think I can finish the rest in a few days. I'll keep you guys updated on this project as it progresses.
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You did all of this :eek These models are awesome. Cookie!
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the first Tomcat, the one with the TPS gray scheme, will represent BuNo 163904, Felix 102, one of the last cats to fly, the second one in the High-Viz scheme will be done up in an VF-84/103 livery but I haven't found a decal set that I like for that one, I haven't quite decided what I'm doing with the Eagle yet, it might end up being one of the liveries used by the local ANG squadron based here in Portland. That P-51 is a made up livery I did to represent a basic late war P-51D scheme, I didn't like either of the Kit liveries and it was before I heard about custom decals, so I pieced it together from the decals it came with. I also had a U-2S with an experimental custom light set I put together, but the lighting was too high maintenance, and it didn't survive the move from where I used to keep my models to the new shelf, so it's currently in "AMARC"
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ugh. that ent is the same one I have the remains of floating around. WHAT are you guys using for glue? every time I put a plastic kit together, the glues never hold.
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I just use Testors red Cement for Plastic Models, it's a plastic solvent cement, so it literally welds the plastic together.
(don't use the non-toxic blue one, it doesn't work at all)
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Iv got to try that Iv had parts brake before due to the glue not holding
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ugh. that ent is the same one I have the remains of floating around. WHAT are you guys using for glue? every time I put a plastic kit together, the glues never hold.
It helps if you're careful when playing with your models ;) :funny
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The question is, what are you guys using? I've always used Testors plastic cement, just about every hobby shop I've ever been to carries it, Are you guys trying to put yours together with crazy glue or something?
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most models come packed with Testors brand. unfortunately, it's just like some tapes I know, sticks only to itself. I've never had good luck with that crap. it melts the plastic, allright, but tends to melt the stuff APART rather than together. I've also used a water-level german glue reccomended by a model shop owner and fellow trekkie. unfortunately, it worked better on the bulk parts (which it was not designed for use with) than small parts, where the Testors type actually worked better.
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you are using the "non-toxic" one, Testers is the best you can get
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I've had some good luck with Revell's stuff.
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The best Iv had is a model glue pen that a modeler I know suggested.
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I just use Testors red Cement for Plastic Models, it's a plastic solvent cement, so it literally welds the plastic together.
(don't use the non-toxic blue one, it doesn't work at all)
I've never had a problem with it.
Then again, could be where I live...climate might have a LOT to do with it!
good work btw
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I've tried those glue pens too, they don't work either, I think they're just crazy glue.
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the masking is coming along nicely, I'm down to the last four pieces, then I can start painting. I just got some magnets today, which I plan to use to attach the captain's yacht with.
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is it capable of saucer sep, i would use magnets for that to, after all, didn't it use maglocks?
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Yeah, it is, and I've been thinking about doing that, I'm not sure if the magnets are going to be strong enough to hold the saucer on though.
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i remember a mythbusters episode, where they had magnets that could hold 1500 KG or something :P
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yeah, it's the same kind of magnets, just a bit smaller.
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Rare Earth is the way to go my friend...Rare Earth! :) That's what I'm doing with my buildup!!
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yup, that's what I've got.
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yup, that's what I've got.
saweeeet! :D Can't wait to see pics :P
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I finally finished the masking. I think next time I do it, I'll spend a little extra money and get a professional painting mask set instead, that took forever. I'll post some pics after I finish the next coat of paint, which I should be able to do tomorrow if it doesn't rain.
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Post in progress pics. I would like to see them!
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I finally managed to finish airbrushing it today. The paintjob isn't perfect, there are a few drips here and there, but it looks awesome. I've unmasked a couple of the pieces already so I'll post a couple shots of it for you guys.
the first shot is these pieces before I did this coat, and the second is after.
you can't really tell in the photo, but I combined a few coats of gloss and dull coat to give it an almost specular-map type pattern on the hull.
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I just finished painting and assembling the warp nacelles
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NOICE!!!! What i'm doing with my AMT EntD is sanding those raised panels off and THEN doing the masking and painting! :D I'm going by Probert's original color specifications :)
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I've got enough glued that I could dry fit most of the model together, the neck isn't glued on yet though, that's why the saucer isn't on it.
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I was right, that's the exact model I have sitting around. thought I recognised the box. if you need spares...
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I think I can manage, besides I just heard a rumor that AMT will be re-releasing the whole line.
Not much to say for updates, I've been busy "painting" windows, with a fine tipped sharpie, and painting the phaser strips too.
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I think the rumor is that Round 2 is going to repop the old AMT kits. They already released the really old 18'' USS Enterprise, TMP Surak, and many Polar Lights kits. They might release the Reliant, Bird of Prey, smaller Enterprises and the all Clear Enterprise-D.
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here's a photo update, I've finished the windows on the upper secondary hull, and most of the phaser banks.
the lower hull was still drying when I took this.
(I share that desk space with my mom's sewing stuff, hence the fabric scraps)
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slight update, detail painting on the upper half of the secondary hull is done, this should give you an idea what the rest of it will look like when finished
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SWEET! :dance
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I finished detailing the lower secondary hull, and the upper half of the primary hull, all I have left painting wise is to paint the escape pods on the bottom of the saucer and do some touch up.
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Painting is nearly done, and I've even got the ship properly weighted to balance on the stand, just waiting for some glue to dry then I'll post a shot of it mounted.
Edit: as promised a full pictorial of the complete model:
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Neato!!! :) As soon as i can I'm going to be working on mine. Mine's going to have those damned gridlines sanded down a bit to where it's a smoothie with the exception of the escape pods :D. I'm also planning on buying paint masks for her through Don's Light and Magic.
I love how yours has turned out Ace! Keep us posted for more :D
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yeah, If I were to do it again I'd have bought the paint masks too, cutting out all those little pieces of sticker paper that I used took forever. I probably would have also used escape pod decals instead of painting each one, sure placing all those would have taken a while but it would have been a lot cleaner than painting the pods, you know the pods were flush on the studio model, so you might as well sand them off too.
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Hey, I have this same model kit in my closet! I should get to it when I have time, perhaps summer...
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yeah, If I were to do it again I'd have bought the paint masks too, cutting out all those little pieces of sticker paper that I used took forever. I probably would have also used escape pod decals instead of painting each one, sure placing all those would have taken a while but it would have been a lot cleaner than painting the pods, you know the pods were flush on the studio model, so you might as well sand them off too.
Yes I know they are LOL But I figured it would look a lot better if they stayed :). And also hehe, do you have Testors inkjet decal paper available near you? I have a photo I made using Scotchy's escape pods on his Galaxy. They should fit perfectly on the paper provided. Just need to specify the size on your printer and there you go!
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actually I know a couple websites that sell escape pod decals pre-printed. The hobby shop I go to does sell decal paper, but it's clear, so you can't use it for white decals.
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Hmmm...that's odd, the decal paper I get usually has white and clear...
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I don't know how much that would help, my inkjet can't print white, so either I'd have to get white paper and cut very carefully around each decal, or get clear paper, and paint the white in under it, right?
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Or...
this (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFLC8&P=7)
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I've never seen that stuff before, the decal paper at my hobbyshop is a different brand. How does it work? Don't you still have to cut out the excess white from the decals?
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I've never seen that stuff before, the decal paper at my hobbyshop is a different brand. How does it work? Don't you still have to cut out the excess white from the decals?
well...I just cut the escape pods out individually LOL Trim them to fit the model, and boom...so I never really had to trim excess white.
OTHER than that yes you do (Like if you're doing NCC-(insert registry number here))
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didn't figure you could print your own. does the decal sheets "waterproof" the ink? cause I only remember the "soak off" kind, and our own printer uses water based inks.
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it should those are waterslide decals. I have heard that the printable ones are a little more fragile than kit ones though, you have to spray them with a lacquer after you print them to fix that.
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it should those are waterslide decals. I have heard that the printable ones are a little more fragile than kit ones though, you have to spray them with a lacquer after you print them to fix that.
What he said LOL Same thing for this, although they do sell the lacquer seperately :)
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due to the weather, I haven't gotten much more done on the Enterprise-D, I've been waiting to put a final coat on the stand, and I haven't done decals in a while so I got a little mini model that I'm building to practice those, but I need to paint it first. Meanwhile, I picked up the ST VI edition of the Enterprise-A model, and a lot of really cool stuff to go with it, like a special accurate-ized deflector dish and sensor dome and stuff, even some fancy super accurate decals and a latex painting mask. I haven't been able to find an accurate painting guide for it though, what I have seen did say to ignore the included one, so I thought I'd ask some of the TMP experts here on the forums, what colors to use. I was thinking about using flat and gloss white for the aztecing on the body, and light and dark aircraft gray for the aztecing on the strongback.
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I picked up the ST VI edition of the Enterprise-A model, and a lot of really cool stuff to go with it, like a special accurate-ized deflector dish and sensor dome and stuff, even some fancy super accurate decals and a latex painting mask.
Did you buy that off of someone from Starshipmodeler.com?
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I found it on Ebay, I ended up only paying $80. It's got all sorts of stuff, resin deflector, bridge, sensor dome, torpedo tubes, copper photo-etched docking ports, new window panels, it has enough decals to make four kits, in all about $300 worth of stuff.
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The question is, what are you guys using? I've always used Testors plastic cement, just about every hobby shop I've ever been to carries it, Are you guys trying to put yours together with crazy glue or something?
Although this was a couple pages ago, I figureed I'd throw my two cents in. I use ambroid Pro- Weld almost exclusively. Its a plastic welded, so it actually melts, bonds, and re-solidifies the plastic. All very fast. I use a syringe to control the placement of it. If I need something slower to work with, Tamiya liquid cement.
I think I can manage, besides I just heard a rumor that AMT will be re-releasing the whole line.
This is a yes/no situation. AMT/Ertl is gone. BUT, the molds were purchased by a company called Round2. I've done a little work for them. they are re-releasing SOME of the stuff, mostly the smaller scale models. Only this time, with all new aztec decals so no masking!! :yay: [If ya can't tell, I have an edge on the modeling world having done work for some of the companies]
On the decal subject, I make a lot of my own. The decal paper comes in two types. One for laser and one for inkjet. You then have to coat the decals to seal the ink. The best is from a company called Microscale. they have a decal film. You spray on a thin layer, then brush on a thin layer. they are much thinner and more fragile than kit decals, but often look better. As stated, no white unless you get whats called an ALPS dye-sublimation printer. MD5000 is the only one I can think of, and its no longer on the market. They can print white, as well as metallics.
I have an entire workshop devoted to model making. I'm also a member of two local clubs, 4 websites, and the international organization [where I am an Asst. Webmaster and Reviewer]. I also know most of the guys that did the box models for AMT. In fact I have a couple "test shot" models in my collection. Including an Ent-D that is smooth. No lines.
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I picked up the latest issue of Fine Scale Modeler at a local bookstore today, and I wish I'd gotten it a month ago when I was doing all that masking. The issue had a whole article about proper masking techniques, even a few tips that would have made my masking look alot better.
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Tis usually trial and error. However, when I get mine ready for paint (I plan on lighting her up) I'm definitely gonna invest in Don's Light And Magic paint masks...seems only logical :).
Viper: Yeah...to me though, having aztec decals instead of painting only makes it less fun for me...don't know why. Only exception I'm gonna make is for the Enterprise E....just gonna take too long to mask every single aztec pattern on the darned thing :(
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the reason I painted instead of decal aztecing was because I was worried that those huge decal sheets would be hard to place and I'd have problems with creases and ripples. I ended up repurposing an aztec decal pattern for the masking and I'm glad I went with that instead, it would have been hell placing those decals. One tip in FSM that I would have found useful was painting the base coat over the mask before the second color to seal the mask down, I wish I'd done that, it would have helped with some drips that soaked through the mask and left some ugly splotches on the hull.
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A lot of the AMT line is being released, you can see a number of the models being re-released here:
http://www.forbiddenplanet.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=4_1165_7123&sort=20a&page=2#activePage=search&searchTerm=star+trek+model&searchCat=&searchMode=term&pagerPage=1&pagerTotalItems=21
There are others like the Excelsior being done too... Not sure about the Defiant...
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I know I haven't updated this project in a while, my mom had repossessed my workbench as her sewing table, and I've been pretty busy at work. The Ent-D is still waiting to be decaled and in the meantime, I'm still struggling to find an appropriate color scheme for my Ent-A model, I've settled on a few colors, but since I've been hard pressed to find any references for colors, I still haven't been able to decide what to use.
the best I can figure so far on the main hull color is a mix of gloss and matte panels in one of these colors:
Testors White:
(http://mediacdn.shopatron.com/media/mfg/809/product_image/thm/t225_b9b6fc94ae32034e7d829ad5303fb392.jpg)
Testors Light Aircraft Gray:
(http://mediacdn.shopatron.com/media/mfg/809/product_image/thm/t225_af3bd471e58618d838626252a9b38b4e.jpg)
Testor's Modelmaster Light Gray:
(http://mediacdn.shopatron.com/media/mfg/809/product_image/thm/t225_96d2952cef713cdf669c9d9d0ce84cb9.jpg)
or
Testor's Modelmaster Light Ghost Gray:
(http://mediacdn.shopatron.com/media/mfg/809/product_image/thm/t225_fbb87f6fc8ba80f1aa929b8d9be4c737.jpg)
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any takers???
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Well, the pure white will show off the panels the best (I've made a 1701 18" model before), although the Modelmaster Light Gray is probably closer to the true coloring of the studio model. You could (perhaps) cover the model in the light gray and then use subtle highlights of the Light Ghost Gray to offset on certain areas.
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Well, the pure white will show off the panels the best (I've made a 1701 18" model before), although the Modelmaster Light Gray is probably closer to the true coloring of the studio model. You could (perhaps) cover the model in the light gray and then use subtle highlights of the Light Ghost Gray to offset on certain areas.
The Enterprise A is actually white...
Although I'm not sure what they used for the azteching pattern, I do believe they may have used a pearlescent type paint on the original TMP model.
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if your thinking of doing the enterprise E be carefull because the way the nacell pylons join onto the hull can break as mine did, the left nacells pylons insert peice snapped off in the inset in the hull is stuck in the hull and i cant get it out, plus my decauls ripped, but its still a good kit if you can avoid making the mistakes i did.
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The Enterprise A is actually white...
Although I'm not sure what they used for the azteching pattern, I do believe they may have used a pearlescent type paint on the original TMP model.
still have mine assembled..... somewhere in my grandmothers attic
i miss that damn thing
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It always seemed like more of a beige to me, that's why I'd been leaning towards light ghost gray or light gray. As I said before, whatever I use, I'll probably use flat as the base, and high-gloss for the paneling, so it'll take on the same kinda specular look that my Enterprise-D has in the right light. the Hull is the only area that I'm having trouble with, I have a fairly good idea what I'm going to use for the rest of it, Although I'm going to basically ignore the kit's painting instructions. (blue and red phasers? yuck, maybe insignia yellow)
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The Enterprise A is actually white...
While that is absolutely true for the studio model, for homemade models, having a slightly darker hue is probably better. My model came out nearly flawless (aside from a bent nacelle :P) but the coloring was as close as I could get it to what I saw in the movies. However, when I took photos, it blanched out and bled. It wasn't pretty. Photos tend to make things brighter, no matter the settings on the camera, so I believe it to better to have a (slightly) darker color on the hull to enhance the paint. Just my opinion on the matter, so feel free to find the color you think best to represent the 1701! ;)
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yeah, that's the same reason I went with Light and Dark Ghost Grey on the Ent-D, instead of the Blue and green of the studio model, because that's what it looks like on screen.
What should I use for the dorsal panels, the so called "Strong back"?
I was considering either:
a combination of;
Light Aircraft Grey:
(http://mediacdn.shopatron.com/media/mfg/809/product_image/thm/t50_af3bd471e58618d838626252a9b38b4e.jpg)
and
Dark Aircraft Grey:
(http://mediacdn.shopatron.com/media/mfg/809/product_image/thm/t50_abb67c61ff7029510452e92908e51e41.jpg)
or
Dark Ghost Grey:
(http://mediacdn.shopatron.com/media/mfg/809/product_image/thm/t50_0a202d0131d52b3538c7ba42ff784756.jpg)
and
Medium Grey:
(http://mediacdn.shopatron.com/media/mfg/809/product_image/thm/t50_10760fc15eae5729a316a71ee6f628d2.jpg)
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TWOK Enterprise was beige with rust/dirt covering most of the secondary hull, I've read about the colors used on refit as well as Ent-A and it is a mix of white and beige but more like white, aztecing was done with several layers of different pearlescent paint so each panel would appear as a different part, teal/blue panels on neck and secondary hull top side is matte paint IIRC, not 100% sure about it tho.
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pretty much what bones said. Been doing my own research (and a handy pointer from Andy Probert) I have had some advice from a guy who has scratch build a TMP connie.
And if Probert recommends it you know you can trust it.
Sneak peak of the new saucer aztec
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Yeah, I've been leaning towards the Ghost gray/medium gray combo, since on my other models that has taken on a blue tint. If it makes any difference, the decals I've got are for the 1701-A not the 1701.
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pretty much what bones said. Been doing my own research (and a handy pointer from Andy Probert) I have had some advice from a guy who has scratch build a TMP connie.
And if Probert recommends it you know you can trust it.
Sneak peak of the new saucer aztec
the aztech on my connie was a normal pattern, but i colored it so no 2 sections looked alike and i thought it looked great that way
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actually Baz's aztecing is closer to how it was done on the filming model
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actually Baz's aztecing is closer to how it was done on the filming model
it may have just been my eye then (or the old ass tv i watch) but everytime i looked at the paneling, i just couldnt find a total overall pattern, i.e. every section looked the same. all i could catch was random colored paneling set the same way. am i making any sence?
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The model uses the same basic aztec pattern as the enterprise-D, it's really quite regular, but it uses alternating patterns to fool the eye into thinking they are random.
here's a good shot of my Ent-D that shows it:
(http://artzone.daz3d.com/azfiles/gallery/ns/di/zlk4tk0wssid2ylnn7c5mmqohkzxfk-full.jpg)
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thats more than likely what threw me off
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haven't gotten around to finishing either Enterprises, but I've been working on some 1:35 scale stuff, I just finished a WWII era Willys MB Jeep. And now I'm finishing up a WWII M4(75) Sherman tank. The Sherman is just waiting on some decals and stowage for the bow and engine deck.
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here's a pic of most of the gear that I'm going to put on the tank.
It also comes with a set of tools that attach to mounts on the back, which aren't pictured here.
Some of it came with the kit, some came out of my spares box.
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Decals are on, all the gear is stowed, she's done
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that looks very good.
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Looks fresh off the line, nice.
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Just a question, but have you done the Revell P-38 Lightning and the Black Widow night fighter??
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I haven't done very many WWII planes, just the Revell Mustang, which I have a picture of on the first page, and a Testors F4U-1D Corsair. I thought about doing the P-38, because I wanted to do something with an aluminum finish, but the P-51 was cheaper, I also considered a B-17, but I didn't have the shelf space.
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I had the F4U!
yea, I want to get back into models, and those are where I'm going to start back up. I will be getting another 6 F-18s (over time) so I can have all of the Angels, a F/A-18E Super Hornet, and a Iowa Class Battleship!
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here's a pic of my F4U
It's not the first model I've ever done but, at about 10 years old, it's probably the oldest model still in my collection, and it was the first time I used an airbrush.
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Mine got destroyed by a little brother!
I will probably hang these from the cealing with some alterations to the landing gears, to have them closed of course
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oh yeah, I've had several unfortunate "crashes" over the years, some were due to "pilot error." Be careful hanging those though, the best option would be a high-test fishing line on a eye-hook screwed into the model, I've had a few casualties resulting from "structural failure" as well. ;) In fact, I built one of my current Tomcats mostly out of parts salvaged from two wrecked Tomcat kits I'd had sitting in storage for a few years.
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my old F-14 had an issue with the wing not gluing right, so i had a 1/4 inch gap in between the top and bottom wing mount on one side.
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yeah, those wings are difficult to line up on that kit
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it's been a while since I've posted an update on the Ent-D kit, now that I've had a little more experience with decals, I decided to try placing the decals on the Enterprise. Unfortunately, I'm not too satisfied with the results from the kit decals. Either from the age of the kit, or my lack of experience, the few that I've done so far haven't really gone down smoothly. I'm considering ditching the rest of the sheet and getting some custom ones for the rest of the kit.
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it's been a while since I've posted an update on the Ent-D kit, now that I've had a little more experience with decals, I decided to try placing the decals on the Enterprise. Unfortunately, I'm not too satisfied with the results from the kit decals. Either from the age of the kit, or my lack of experience, the few that I've done so far haven't really gone down smoothly. I'm considering ditching the rest of the sheet and getting some custom ones for the rest of the kit.
If you go with anyone go with JTGraphics they have by far THE best Galaxy decals. (Eh...every time I see that word I think of the guy who pronounces it dee-cles....*shudder* it's dee-CAL (as in CALifornia)...)
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well that means I'll have to back burner the Ent-D again for a while, in the meantime I picked up an Italeri LVT-4 to add to my 1:35 collection.
(http://www.modelsforsale.com/listphotos/IT379.jpg)
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ok, I'm almost done with the LVT, but I've hit a little snag, does anyone know how to repair broken rubber tracks?
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hmm.. perhaps stapler, or clear tape?
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hmm.. perhaps stapler, or clear tape?
Actually I do believe they make a glue for rubber...
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the problem with glue is that it's a clean break, and I don't know if I can get a stapler in there, I'm going to try sewing it up with thread, but I think the rubber might not be any good. I've been asking around, and it seems that the enamel spray paint I used might have made the rubber brittle. I've ordered a replacement set of tracks.
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well, after trying (and failing) to get a replacement set of tracks from the manufacturer, I broke down and bought another LVT (all the Italeri LVTs have the same track pieces, so even though I got an LVT-2 they work on my LVT-4) I figured that it was cheaper than getting a set of aftermarket resin ones. It's almost done, I'll put up some pictures after a couple more finishing touches.
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as promised, here's some shots of the finished product, Right now, it's done, but I've run out of display space, so I'm waiting for my dad to help me put up a shelf for them.
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Very good job, also I like how the officer is just casually disembarking. :funny
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yeah, I found infantry to be very fun to do, each one has tons of little details, and that's why I have so many in this set, I ended up buying 4 sets of WWII American infantry to go with all this, the only regret is they aren't completely accurate, All the troops are in Western ETO US Army uniforms, so they're a bit overdressed for Marines in the PTO. But I did the best I could with what I could find.
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even still, that looks SICK :salute2:
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once I can get that one out of the way (still waiting on that shelf) I've got a new project.
(http://www.modelsforsale.com/listphotos/TM35158.jpg)
The M1A1 Abrams with Mine Plow.
I was going to start working on the Ent-A, but I saw this at the store and I had to build it.
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once I can get that one out of the way (still waiting on that shelf) I've got a new project.
(http://www.modelsforsale.com/listphotos/TM35158.jpg)
The M1A1 Abrams with Mine Plow.
I was going to start working on the Ent-A, but I saw this at the store and I had to build it.
woodland or chocolate chip camo paint with army rangers flanking it :D
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I was going to go with solid desert sand, like the box art, They didn't actually use 6 color desert (chocolate chip camo) on the real tanks, since that would be more difficult to paint on such a large object. It will have infantry flanking it though, ;) they'll probably be in either 6 color, or the more recently used 3 color desert pattern.
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wait a minute. what era's the tank, though?
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Modern times. Don't tell me you know about the M1 Abrams main battle tank.
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not a thing, that's why I wondered about the era for the paint job. I haven't put models together since the early nineties, and my expertise is more in Aircraft.
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M1A1s were intruduced in the 80s, their first major combat deployment was in Desert Storm in 91, and they are still used today in the current Iraq conflict.
The Desert 6 color pattern was designed in the 60s and deployed in the 80s, but was phased out in favor of the 3 color pattern shortly after Desert Storm because the 6 color design had too much contrast with the terrain. Both of these patterns were only used on BDUs because it was easier to spray tanks with a solid Sand color. During the first gulf war, the tanks were rushed to the gulf and most of them arrived in the 3 color woodland pattern used in Europe, meaning that they had to be painted in the field. In the current conflict, the US army faced a similar problem, and instead decided to leave some of the tanks in their woodland pattern, which is why you can see a mix of the two schemes on tanks in Iraq today.
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I finally have that shelf put up, so here's some pictures of the whole thing, just about everything is where I want it, except the machine gun team on the side of the AMTRAC, I'm still trying to come up with a way of getting them to stand on their own, without gluing them to the shelf.
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I'm still trying to come up with a way of getting them to stand on their own, without gluing them to the shelf.
i do beleive sir that a minor round of PT and some LOUD yelling should do the trick for any soldier failing to stand at designated post :D
my uncle used to use tongue depressors and small magnets as weights to solve that issue, but he also made scenes with his models, so the base of his troops would somewhat be buried. lol.
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I thought they were hugging the side of it because they were under fire and the officer was just acting bamf, but it seems they're just rallying together. So yeah, probably would make sense to have them stand on their own.
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I've got most of the tank done, I'm waiting on some more desert sand paint I ordered, so I started working on some infantry and crew to go with it.
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hooah! lookin good :dance
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aside from decals, some minor detailing and the mineplow, the tank is done.
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speaking of minor details, I just finished all that stuff, now all I've got to do is decals.
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Reminds me of that one Decepticon. Very good work Aces!
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That would be Brawl.
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the rest of the decals are on, and I fixed a few details I missed (how could I forget to paint the periscopes on the commander's copula?!? :banghead:)
I don't know what's up with the camera, it was working fine yesterday.
Edit: I got the camera working (I'm not sure how, but it works :dance )
here's some pics of the finished model:
(http://artzone.daz3d.com/azfiles/gallery/t7/ui/10h2xont2y6dx1z7czko8nu9rgxufc-pre.jpg)
(http://artzone.daz3d.com/azfiles/gallery/9c/rl/7ejrtycdfn3yegjhbdyi1gjvigoj7q-pre.jpg)
(http://artzone.daz3d.com/azfiles/gallery/57/uu/cs6dj4qjdksbcpiy45gc82rvuilfuj-pre.jpg)
(http://artzone.daz3d.com/azfiles/gallery/uo/q1/xz115y1dsm1ck4qpj20gaftij30juf-pre.jpg)
(http://artzone.daz3d.com/azfiles/gallery/5n/0d/mxawculwlhsrot7silmqaqfsysoeq5-pre.jpg)
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Ok, I guess I'm having too much fun with these 1:35 scale things, I just can't get away from this scale, I bought another, this time it's an M1114 HMMWV Up-armored tactical vehicle.
(http://www.finescale.com/~/media/EC03EECDA6CF4731B7F0E97CF31F410D.ashx?mw=600)
this one's going to be a challenge because it's the first time I've done a model with Photo-etch brass parts.
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it's my topic, and I've been lousy at keeping it updated, so I'll do it anyway :P
I've been working on that HMMWV for a while now, it's a very detailed kit, one of the most detailed models I have ever built.
and I've got most of the body done, the cammo on the door is a bit of an experiment, I masked out each layer of the pattern, then when it was dry I taped on the ID panels and painted the desert sand over it, this has the effect of leaving the area under the panels in woodland and allowing me to expose the pattern on other areas of the doors just by sanding a little.
I don't know how much more I'll be able to do for a while, with the nice summer weather over, we probably won't get good painting weather for a while.
Also, in case you've noticed, I finally got a decent camera, it's another hand me down from my sister, but it's decent enough to use for model photography.
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here's a little side project I've been working on while the weather here is too wet to spray paint anything for the HMMWV.
General Douglas MacArthur