Bridge Commander Central
Recreational Forums => Art Forum => Topic started by: RCgothic on January 17, 2008, 04:46:58 AM
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my last one:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000048.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000047.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000046.jpg)
my new one:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000049.jpg)
Have bought a Neodymium magnet pack for this one. I want to magnetise the weapons so that they're posable and interchangeable. The other Titans at my GW aren't able to aim their weapons independently, or disassemble, which will give me Mega-Points for coolness, and eliminate the major thing they complain about. Titan will be in the same colour scheme as the baneblade.
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very cool man,
im gonna give you a cookie just because the amount of patience it would have taken to paint all those little bolts :lol:
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hehe, took an evening.
Doing the whole thing took about 2 weeks. First I sprayed the whole thing off-white, and then highlighted with a lighter shade. I then masking taped up the bits I wanted to stay white and sprayed over with two different greens. Finally I touched up the edges. and painted the details.
*nibbles on cookie*
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You've got a Baneblade and a Warhound... you rich bitch!!
But nice sheme on the Baneblade, did you do it with the spray and blu-tac/masking tape technique? I'm waiting for Col to get off his arse and spray his and my house will have a full tank company and ready for some massive Apocalypse/Floorhammer stuff. My next thing on the list has to be a Cursader, they're just not proper Sword Bretheren without it!
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Awesome RC. finally someone else who models in plastic!! Weathering and dry brushing looks good, but it could use an oil wash to bring out the lines a bit better. Do you do a lot of scale modeling?
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It's just a kit from Games Workshop, not customised much by the looks of it (which is a shame, because if I was going to spend ?65 on a tank, there's no way in hell I'd leave it "as is")
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was it bought pre-painted and all? Or did you have to assemble and finish it?
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It needed to be assembled and painted. The Baneblade Super-Heavy tank came in more than a hundred plastic bits, which I assembled and then airbrushed, using masking tape for the camo scheme. Details were picked out with a paintbrush. The tracks could use more weathering, but I'm not trying that out for the first time on a tank worth ?60. (coming on ?150 including paints, tape, airbrush and air canisters).
Paint mix is:
Green: Base: Catatchan Green, Highlight: Snot Green
White/Cream:Base: Kommando Khaki, Highlight: Kommando Khaki and Skull White 1:1
The warhound has more than 250 resin parts, which I've just finished cleaning up. I'm moving on to scrubbing and unwarping now. (to remove mould grease and fix minor warping in the carapace.)
With a marine honour guard:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000052.jpg)
The marines shown are WIPs as well. They're marines 77-92 of a 100 man Battle Company. I need to find 5 or 6 rhino hulls from somewhere as well to complete the set.
I did an inventory this morning and found I had around 216 models painted and WIP, including 2 Land Raiders, 2 dreadnaughts, 2 landspeeders and 6 Rhino-based vehicles. I must lay it all out on the kitchen table and take some photos of the entire collection.
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you did an awesome job on that remote man, :lol:,
;)
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The marines shown are WIPs as well. They're marines 77-92 of a 100 man Battle Company. I need to find 5 or 6 rhino hulls from somewhere as well to complete the set.
So, did you invest in the Company box set too? I thought you were still an impoverished student.
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Nope. I've built up that many marines over a period of time. If I'd bought the battle company boxed set, I wouldn't be short on Rhinos. The Baneblade was my 40k project for October. The Titan was a sort of Christmas gift to myself. I haven't really been drinking as much as I used to, so I'd built up a little bit of money for something special.
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nice. I would recommend trying silly putty for the masking of the camo. It works quite well. Also, for the tracks, try painting them black or dark grey, then rub the contact areas with a lead pencil. It will give it the warn down metal look. then use a little earth colored chalk to hit the road wheels and insides of the metal for that rust look. I've got hundreds of models. Built and unbuilt. Everything from military to sci/fi to police and aircraft.
Here's one of my tanks. Its an M88A1 Recovery vehicle. US Army, Iraq
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x242/plastic_surgeon/Show%20and%20Tell/Armour/7-20-06_b.jpg?t=1200681157)
and here is one of my ST figures. Ambassador Spock
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f86/ViperMP/misc%20models/Profile.jpg)
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Lead pencil sounds like an interesting idea to try. Usually I just go for a very, very, dry brush of boltgun metal and then a very, very, very dry brush of mithryl silver (Games Workshop paints, a dark looking metal and a lighter silvery one for those who don't know).
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yep. another one to try, is if you can get to an art supply store, pic up a silver Prismacolor pencil. Its a soft lead. Worked great for highlighting and "paint chipping". I've been doing models for years, and have one several awards. I've learned a lot over the years. The newest thing I've been working with is pre-shading. Which is building the model, priming it in grey, then going over certain areas in black before painting the final color. It gives the illusion of paint weathering. This is my CH-47 Chinook. Its one several awards and its the first model I preshaded.
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f86/ViperMP/Awards/CH-47A-1.jpg)
You can also see the use of the prismacolor silver near the front of the sponsons and the door. Here is one that was post shaded. It was painted with all its camo, then the panel lines were airbrushed at about 5psi and a super thin mix of flat black and clear smoke.
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f86/ViperMP/Aircraft/Ardvark-2.jpg)
If you want to learn more, and pick up some good tips, I recommend http://cs.finescale.com/forums/Default.aspx Its a modeling forum, and there is a section just on sci/fi. Its like my second home.
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wow, quite amazing stuff guys.
I like modelling as well, but atm I absolutely dont have any time...
my ones dont look that professional, but quite good though I think :)
maybe I'll post some pics soon
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Well, nice stuff RC and all but whoa, awesome Viper.
I was doing models too when I was young-er but I was seeing them more like "toys you get to assemble" and then always played with them, usually with not very professional modeler results (gears and antennas were the first to go and all aircraft slowly seemed to convert themselves to tailess versions)
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Wow viper, you're clrearly way beyond my skill level. Whilst I'm really, really pleased with the way the Baneblade came out when I put some extra effort in, when you're painting 15 marines to use in a game in only a few days away you tend to shoot for 'good enough' rather than 'excellent'.
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that recovery vehicle went on a diorama with about 30-40 figures. So I do know what your talking about. Here is a shot of it with the figures. all hand painted. I havent done figures since.
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f86/ViperMP/Fall%20of%20Saddam/FOS_1.jpg)
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Sweet, full on diorama's is where it's at.
So, when are you going to put up the Warhound? I hear from some forgeworld enthusiasts that it's almost more trouble than it's worth since it will fall down one day. But a sweet base with crushed up orks under the feet and curmbled walls/barbed wire would be cool, it'll be more than big enough.
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I'm magnetising the waist, hips, head and weapons. I'll be able to dismantle it and store it properly, so it won't fall down, because there'll be nothing sticking out to get caught.
I've only got transfers left to apply to the 15 marines I've been painting (numbers 77-92) , and the warhound is next on the to-do list. I'd like to do a nice base, but enemy/friendly inspecific.
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enemy/friendly inspecific.
Dead guardsmen, you can't go wrong with piles and piles of dead guardsmen under a big thing. No matter what world, what senario or army you're palying, there will always be dead guard around.
Your biggest concern with a base is actually whether it will match the board not necessarily the enemies. City fights are becoming a lot more popular, I know close to 100% of the stuff I do is city fight based, but that kind of thing isn't great for a titan. You could just build a display base more than a battle base, in which case, go to town on it.
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Could do an overgrown paved gravelly area.
That way even in a city it wouldn't be too out of place. Most of our boards are green, with city buildings. The store guys say they're going to do a desert board soon.
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Have washed all the bits to remove any mould lubricant.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000062.jpg)
As a point of interest, here's the view from the room I'm working in. That's the Balliol College Jowett Walk sports ground, and the buildings on the left are the departments of Chemistry and Hydrology.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000063.jpg)
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I'm sure you're experienced in forge-world's fantastic merchandise, but as a hint, wash it again. And again. Then score all the flat bits and buy the strongest hammerite style primer you can get your mitts on.
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I find washing them in a good degreaser is usually all they need. I do some of my own castings, and the mold release agent usually cleans up fairly easy. I let them soak for about an hour in warm soapy water, then lightly scrub with an old toothbrush. Rinse and let dry and you should be fine.
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I find washing them in a good degreaser is usually all they need.
Anti-dandruff shampoo? Apparently you can degrease engines with it. I'll have to try it since my Tyrant's already flaking in patches.
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never tried it. I usually use Joy dish soap. Same stuff I use to degrease firearms.
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They had a good soak in soapy water, should be fine. I'll be undercoating with a fine matt varnish rather than paint, because it adheres better to the resin according to the guys in the shop.
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that is correct! I usually prime with either automotive primer or something like Mr. Surfacer on resin. Mostly though, I grab my trusty can of $.98 Walmart Equipment Grey Primer. It has never failed me in over 15 years. [yes, I built my first model at age 10.]
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Well, the magnets worked. I bought myself a cheap hammer drill, a 15mm flat drill bit and a pack of 20 neodymium rare-earth magnets. This is the result:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000066.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000065.jpg)
I was really worried about this, because if I had been unwise about insisting on magnets, sorting out the drill-holes would have been nearly impossible. I'm glad it turned out ok.
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hey, thats an interesting idea. Might have to use it on a couple dioramas for when I transport them to contests. I've done models with motors and lights, but never magnets.
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Magnets are also good for concealed switches. Reed switches I think they're called. Put a magnet in a gas-can or something and stick it over a part of hull with concealed reed switch and all the lights come on.
I'm going to stick to purposes of disassembly and poses though. Though I have a good knowledge of electronics (I could build in a CLK controlled 4th order filter if neccessary), I have little to none of concealing such in miniatures, and I'd rather not go all-in on this model.
I'm also going to make the head, pelvis and legs detatchable by much the same method.
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Do you have alternate weapons too or did it arrive with just the one set?
Though I'm sure you could do some cool stuff with electronics embedded in to it. I've seen a stereo embedded in a Squiggoth. Getting the cockpit to light up should be fairly easy for you.
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I don't have alternative weapons - yet. The store has a spare vulcan megabolter, and I've been applying some pressure. I think I'll be avoiding electronics for the moment, although there's no reason I can't add some later if I feel like it.
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And I've done the same for the head. Notice that the hole wasn't quite straight so I leveled the surface off with green stuff. I think I may have this problem with the arms as well, once attatched, but I can use the same trick, or bending the arms in warm water, to get them level.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000067.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000068.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000069.jpg)
This last one demonstrates that the titan will be posable. The head can be at any angle.
At this stage I'm going to take a break to paint the interior before I've stuck the two halves of the carapace together. I don't have a clue how to do the insides though.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000074.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000072.jpg)
Any ideas? It should look like the inside of a military vehicle, but I'm not sure whether to go for a pale cream or a battleship grey for the majority background. It should look like engineering, and not clash with the exterior, which is going to be done mostly like the Baneblade Tank in the first post.
For the cable connectors I'm going to need 5mm wooden dowel, and 5mm internal diameter black rubber tubing. I also need some sort of base material. I wish there was a B&Q in central oxford.
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I would just black it all and then drybrush with boltgun metal, then pick out any pipping that you think should be copper and do any raised panels as red or very dark washed out red, which is the colour of the machine god.
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I've decided I'm going to go for a submarine-style look. I'll be using darkened down codex grey, highlighting with codex grey. I agree with the copper bits, and screens will be in various shades of grey, buttons on panels red, yellow or green. Bolts will be boltgun metal. The plan is to make it look dark, yet clean. The black-botgun drybrush would make it look too dirty I think.
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Sounds cool. Maybe I'll post WIP pics of my next build. I've got some fun ones coming up!
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The Submarine look sounds good. A lot of the interiors of the big Forgeworld stuff would suit that.
Since we're also looking at general modelling and 40K between updates on this thread, I thought I'd attach this. Yes, it is exactly what you think it is. (apologies if the link buggers, I don't think it's directly facebook related so you won't require a log in, but if it fails for anyone, I'll attach, it's scary enough to warrant it...)
(http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sctm/v129/121/62/516099667/n516099667_118315_8975.jpg)
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Haha. :D
Well, the first attempt at painting didn't go very well. I thought I'd scrubbed and washed thoroughly, but obviously not. The paint didn't stick, and gunked up the control panel and a few bits of machinery. It's going to be a pain to sort out. This was despite being undercoated with varnish.
Edit: Possible that not much harm was done, the paint seems to be scraping off nicely.
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Told you it would rub off :P Give it a very, very good undercoat.
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Haha. :D
Well, the first attempt at painting didn't go very well. I thought I'd scrubbed and washed thoroughly, but obviously not. The paint didn't stick, and gunked up the control panel and a few bits of machinery. It's going to be a pain to sort out. This was despite being undercoated with varnish.
Edit: Possible that not much harm was done, the paint seems to be scraping off nicely.
with models like those, you better paint them BEFORE glueing them. more with small pieces.
I had a small WW2 japanese Zero bomber I modelled when I was about 10. had roughly big pieces, but it said in the package that you must paint them before putting it together. as you might wonder, I didn't. :(
the model was well glued and mounted, but my bad painting ruined it all.
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I haven't stuck together any bits that would make painting any part of the model difficult.
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See, I go the opposite on most stuff. aircraft and similar stuff gets fully assembled, the seams filled and sanded smooth. Then I mask off canopies and what not and start the painting. That way its all a uniform coat of paint. It backfire some times, but not often.
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the quickest way to paint these things is with spray, or aerographer. you just lay them in a surface and paint them all at the same time (those with the same color, of course). if you don't have spray, arm yourself with patience and paint them by hand. it's not the same, but it's a good de-stresser lol.
instead of masking and then painting, you just glue them already painted, and where the glue rubs off then you just correct that part (if you really need to, if it's small and off view, don't bother)
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There are certainly two schools when it comes to paint-assemble or assemble-paint. I go for a combination, based on what's easiest and most appropriate. But if you're using polycement, it's best not to put it on top of paint unless you want it to burn, get messy and not stick properly.
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yeah, I usually paint parts before I glue them, if I screw up and something isn't even I just touch it up by hand, here's a few examples of mine.
(I am wiring the U-2 with LEDs)
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I'm usually of the 'assemble then paint' school. But when there are interiors to do you just can't reach everywhere if you assemble first. I'll paint the interior, then I'll finish assembly, then I'll airbrush the outside and do the details with a brush.
Unfortunately, my flatmates have taken to using my brushes and paints themselves. They use a vast quantity of paint, more than I would on an entire squad of infantry, and are both too rough with the brushes and allow paint to gunk them up.
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Damned brush abusers!
I remember my Immolator, since I painted it in separate pieces, I've actuallly neglected to glue it together. So if it gets blown up, it makes more interesting debris on the field :P Also, I store the spare guns inside it.
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Well, this thread's been quiet for a while. I've been painting the rear compartment.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000149.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000151.jpg)
The Bitz box is a little bit of a joke...
Also, the rest of my army has reached full battle company strength, just need to get a few more transports together. Though they're not mandatory, in large games they are certainly required.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000152.jpg)
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I really need to pick up some of the forge world stuff. I've got a wish list as long as my arm. I've been holding back a bit so that I can get some of my other stuff painted. Still got a few fire warriors to finish off, 3 hammer heads and then the remaining odds and sods from my chaos marines.
I'm sorely tempted by forge worlds malcurius with it's horribly phat vulcan mega bolters, but it's a lot of money.
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I love that version. The Macharius is a very nice looking tank. The Malcador is FUGLY though.
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That's some impressive paint work for fiddly interiors, so long as you keep it up for the rest of the titan.
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Nearly finished my first squad of fire warriors, only got one left to finish painting before I can go and base the lot of them. Should get it done tonight, expect pictures soon.
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Here's the fire warriors I mentioned, their completion was somewhat delayed when I came down with a mild case of Nurgle's rot
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That's a pretty cool coulour scheme. A nice change from the standard tan and brown.
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Yes, quite effective. My housemate's Tau are all in Dark Angels Green and a few other dark greens (can't remember specifically), which is odd considering we play urban games almost exclusively so he gives everything jungle/forest camo colours (including the guard).
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Progress!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000264.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000263.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000262.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000261.jpg)
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O_O;
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Is this a case of "holy shizzle my Reaver is coming soon and I need to look busy" ?
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Is this a case of "holy shizzle my Reaver is coming soon and I need to look busy" ?
Yep.
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Had a mild panic just now. Have been assembling it next to a window for the good light. It's also quite hot, so the window was open. So when I knocked it over the damage was thus:
Broken piston x1
Out of window into building site next door Hatches x3.
Luckily they were quite visible and one of the workmen was able to give me back the bits that fell out of the window and the piston glued together nicely and is hidden behind the shin armour anyway.
It could have been much, much worse. Have moved my workspace.
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Oh, lucky! O_O;
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I hope this teaches you to be more careful with your FW purchases young Padawan :lol:
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Oh yes, I forgot. legs assembled. (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000265.jpg)
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My renegade ogryns and chaos guard command squad arrived today. Now if only I had the time to fiddle with them
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I haven't actually glued the hips onto the legs yet. I mean to magnetise them and I've lost my magnets.
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I came to my senses and just pinned it.
Fully assembled pics!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000267.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000266.jpg)
It also disassembles into 9 handy bits. Have yet to add shin, thigh and groin armour.
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My current project, been painting it off and on for about a week
Still haven't quite worked out the focus settings on my camera :(
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Kewl. I always wondered how you guys can paint such puny little things. O_O;
Almost looks like somethin' out of Quake 4. :)
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Not suprised it's taken a week, that's some good work.
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Wow glemp, that's really impressive. I've spent the last week figuring out how to do yellows, which involved three attempts on a very unfortunate space marine biker and two more-successful attempts on a cheap russian T-80 tank that I didn't fully assemble, before I felt confident enough to basecoat the cockpit.
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Thank you one and all
My next project in the works is a chaos on a juggernaut (which will bring me up to 6 lords or there abouts), I'm going to try modelling it so it's rearing up. Need to pick up some magnets too so that I can swap weapons between the halberd I'm making for it and a power fist (I cannot say no to the 5 or 6 str 10 attacks that would offer). I'm cannibalising one of the storm shields I've got kicking about too. Not sure on what to use for his head though, I was thinking of something a bit more knightly than the normal lord heads, something like the one on this model http://uk.games-workshop.com/storefront/store.uk?do=Individual&code=99060107044&orignav=10 but I've got know idea if the head's integral or not, intend on finding that out when I pick up my juggernaut.
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Progress! Have taught myself how to paint yellows. Here's a step by step of how it went:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000318.jpg)
This is attempts 1, 2 and 3.
Starting on the front mudguard, undercoated white, basecoated golden yellow and then drybrushed sunburst followed by badmoon. Complete disaster. At this stage I asked for help.
One of my store staff suggested Tausept Ochre drybrushed Iyanden Darksun, so that's on the back driverside mudguard. Nice, but sandy rather than yellow.
He then suggested Iyanden darksun mixed with golden yellow, and highlighting up from there. Passengerside mudguard. Didn't really work.
I realised I was going to have to test this out on a different miniature. I wasn't willing to spend much, so I bought a cheap T-80 and had my way with it. I started airbrushing as well, as it's fairly different to brush painting. As you can see, vast improvement.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000320.jpg)
I started with a white undercoat, then sprayed golden yellow. I shaded with firey orange wash. I went over again with golden yellow, and then 2 more coats with increasing amounts of skull white mixed in. This obliterated the shading, so I went over it with another wash of firey orange. It ended up a bit dark.
So I did the whole thing white again and re-did it, this time with lighter shades and washes at the end. I slightly overdid the highlight in the middle of the turret, but it was a vast improvement over the SM Bike.
Finally, I painted the head of the titan. I wanted something a bit richer, so I started with Sunburst mixed with firey orange and highlighted from there. At the end I shaded with the same mix diluted into a wash.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000321.jpg)
I'm very pleased with how it came out, and am now moving onto detailing.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000322.jpg)
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That is amazing, yellows are a royal pain to paint and that's come out marvellously crisp
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I just don't touch yellow, not that I've found a need to use them for anything other than painting small dots. But good finish regardless, the practice and experimentation paid off, at least you didn't trash the titan.
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Yellow certainly wouldn't have been my first choice if I hadn't seen it look so cool on someone else's titan. The experimentation definitely paid off, am very happy with the result. Here are some more detail pics of stuff that I did in the last week:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000323.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000324.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000326.jpg)
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The current progress on the project I last mentioned
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Wow, I like. Note to self, set uber-cc-librarian of Doom on that guy!
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Strictly speaking this model's got terminator armour which you can't normally have if you take a juggernaut, but I thought it'd look better than a standard marine model. The storm shield is a bit I've had knocking about for a while now, chaos normally can't take storm shields so I'm just having it count as an additional cc weapon. The plasma pistol/bolt pistol is represented as an integral weapon in the cc weapon (like old school grey knights) as the gargoyle head between the blades. Still need to add some reins going to the shield bearing hand too.
From a rules perspective this guy gets 6 str 5 attacks, 7 on a charge (if my calculations are correct), if I have his cc weapon as a bloodfeeder that hops up to around 18 attacks. There's also the temptation to say it counts as a power weapon so that I can have 6 str 10 attacks which I think's pretty nifty.
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He sounds utterly lethal. Hmm, this isn't really a modelling project, but you guys may be interested. My codex IG re-write:
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I've been wanting to get some Gundam models for quite some time... I need to look into that, I suppose. Anyways, nice work all of ya... those models are cool.
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I've been wanting to get some Gundam models for quite some time... I need to look into that, I suppose. Anyways, nice work all of ya... those models are cool.
If you ever happen to find one alike my avatar, I'll worship you forever.
Also, these models are beautiful. Amazing painting work. I haven't painted kits in years, but this definately makes me want to get back into it, starting with one of the upcoming Kotobukiya SRW models...
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000364.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000362.jpg)
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You're insane.
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Thank you.
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More forge world related awesome
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Those look pretty cool glemp.
Titan Tech Priest:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000366.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/P1000367.jpg)
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Finished the rest of my renegade command squad
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Been working on a tau broadside conversion loosely based upon a picture from the back of the new 5th ed rule book. The railgun's been a bit of a cow, the ammo drums are more than just slightly fiddly. I basically just stuck both rail gun bits onto the arm that the smart missiles system's normally mounted on. The smart missiles are no being made by sandwiching two standard missile pods together, putting them on a sliced up flying base stick and fixing them on the shoulders...well in theory anyway, I don't have enough to do two sets atm. #
But anyway, here's the current rail gun wip
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Is that two metal railguns stuck together?
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Oh yes
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Little Project update on the broadside
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Looks like he's tracking an aircraft with that thing.
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Reaver Update:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/LGIM0071.jpg)
Warhound Update:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/LGIM0072.jpg)
Reaver and Warhound inflicting 75% casualties on a 2.5x larger force of anti-tank troops:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/LGIM0061-1.jpg)
Some Reaver Interior shots:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/LGIM0059-1.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/LGIM0074.jpg)
Some Reaver Magnet works:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/LGIM0055-1.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/LGIM0057-1.jpg)
Practicing flames so that when I draw them on the leg armour they'll be better than this:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/LGIM0068.jpg)
A Carapace Banner I'm considering:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/rcgothic/LegioAstorum.jpg)
The titans now have names in High Gothic. The Reaver is Bellator Obscuri, The Warrior of Darkness, and the Warhound is Viator Noctis, Messenger of Night.
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I've done some fiddling with modeling for the Source Engine... this is the first weapon I ever made (and so far still the only one) I haven't skinned or animated it yet though so it's just a bunch of shapes really.
(http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/1872/hk19111yn4.th.jpg) (http://img177.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hk19111yn4.jpg)
(http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/5868/hk19112su6.th.jpg) (http://img177.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hk19112su6.jpg)
(http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/4930/hk19113cq7.th.jpg) (http://img177.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hk19113cq7.jpg)
(http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/3973/hk19114fr5.th.jpg) (http://img177.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hk19114fr5.jpg)
For those you who aren't gun savvy, this is a basic 1911 with H&K Styling cues... this isn't the finished product though, I made changes to this (straightened out some of the lines and planes, and then added the magazine) so this is a bit off from what it should look like.
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Eesh it's been a while since anyone's put anything up here, but anywho.
I finally got round to finishing one of my labours of love last month. Chapter Master Barachiel of The Gatekeepers. Complete with home made relic blade. He does have on of those backpack mounted banners but it fell off and I haven't stuck it back on yet. Nor have I actually drawn the chapter symbol on it yet.